Even when we’re fasting, we Italians eat. I learned that lesson in the kitchen of my grandmother Irene. As a staunch Roman Catholic, she always fasted before holy days, including Christmas. But for Italians, fasting doesn’t mean that we don’t eat: It just means we eat fish.
Seafood-based dinners are ubiquitous on Christmas Eve in Italy, but somewhere along the line, Italian American families developed their own — much more elaborate — version of the tradition. It was named the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Although there are some theories, no one seems to know for sure why there are seven. My personal hypothesis: That’s enough food to keep a family around the table eating, talking, and laughing for hours, which is the whole point of any holiday gathering.
The menu runs the gamut from laid back to gourmet, with some unifying flavors that pay homage to the Italian inspiration — think lots of garlic, olive oil, butter, and herbs. It’s a multifaceted meal that calls for teamwork in the kitchen and plenty of mouths to feed at the table. But hey, they don’t call it a feast for nothing.
Littleneck Clams Steamed in White Wine
Makes 2 to 3 servings • Prep time 30 minutes • Cook time 15 minutes
- 2 dozen live littleneck clams
- 4 tbs. grassfed butter, divided
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 shallot, minced
- ¼ tsp. red-pepper flakes
- 1 cup Pinot Grigio or other dry white wine
- ½ lemon
- ¼ cup fresh parsley, minced
- Baguette or other bread, for serving
- Submerge the clams in a bowl of clean, cool water for 30 minutes to allow them to purge any grit or sand. Drain and rinse the clams and discard any with broken shells.
- In a large, deep pan with a tight-fitting lid, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallot, and pepper flakes and sauté until soft and fragrant, approximately two minutes.
- Add the wine to the pan, then spread the clams in a single layer. Top with the remaining butter and cover. Steam until all the clams have opened, about 10 minutes. You’ll hear a clicking sound as they open; discard any clams that remain closed.
- Transfer the clams to a serving dish and ladle the liquid from the pan over them. Finish with a generous squeeze of the lemon and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve with the baguette or other crusty bread.
Smoked Salmon Caesar Salad With Bitter Greens
Makes 4 servings • Prep time 15 minutes • Cook time 10 minutes
Salad
- 8 oz. asparagus spears
- 4 oz. arugula
- 4 oz. baby spinach
- 3 small heads of endive, coarsely chopped
- 8 oz. smoked salmon, sliced
Dressing
- 3 anchovies (or 1½ tsp. anchovy paste)
- 1 large garlic clove, minced
- 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
- 1 large egg yolk
- Juice of ½ lemon
- ½ tsp. Dijon mustard
- ¼ cup + 2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 3 tbs. grated Parmesan cheese
- 1 shallot, thinly sliced
- Using a vegetable peeler or sharp knife, shave or cut the asparagus into long, thin strips. Add the strips to a bowl with the other greens and mix.
- Place the anchovies, minced garlic, and salt on a cutting board, and use the flat side of your knife to mash the ingredients into a thick paste. (Alternatively, use a mortar and pestle to thoroughly combine.)
- In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolk, lemon juice, and mustard. Mix in the anchovy-garlic paste. Slowly drizzle in ¼ cup of the olive oil, whisking vigorously, until the mixture emulsifies and thickens. Stir in the Parmesan.
- Add the remaining olive oil to a pan and heat over medium-high until shimmering. Add the shallots and sauté, stirring constantly, until they’re golden brown and crispy, about eight minutes. Remove and drain on a paper towel.
- Toss the greens in the dressing, then serve topped with the salmon and crispy shallots.
Fried Sardines With Tomato Salad and Gremolata
Makes 4 servings • Prep time 15 minutes • Cook time 10 minutes
- 2 4-oz. cans sardine fillets packed in spring water
- 1 large egg, beaten
- ¼ cup all-purpose flour (or gluten-free alternative)
- ¼ cup plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- ½ cup finely chopped parsley
- 2 tsp. lemon zest
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- ½ tsp. coarse sea salt
- 3 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
- Remove the sardine fillets from the can with care to ensure they stay mostly intact (it’s OK if they break into a few pieces), and gently pat dry with a paper towel. Place the beaten egg and the flour in separate bowls near the sardines.
- Place a heavy-bottomed pot or skillet over medium heat and add the ¼ cup of oil or enough to cover the bottom. Heat the oil until it’s shimmering.
- Dip each sardine fillet in the egg, then coat with the flour. Drop into the oil and fry until golden brown and crispy, about five to eight minutes, turning occasionally.
- While the sardines are frying, make the gremolata. In a small bowl, mix the parsley, lemon, garlic, and salt with the remaining teaspoon of olive oil.
- Arrange the tomato slices on a plate, then top with the gremolata and serve with the sardines.
Buttermilk-Poached Halibut
Makes 2 to 4 servings • Prep time 5 minutes • Cook time 10 minutes
- 1 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 to 4 fresh halibut fillets, approximately 6 oz. each
- ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
- 1 tsp. sea salt, divided
- 1 quart buttermilk
- 3 tbs. grassfed butter, melted
- ¼ cup cilantro, finely minced
- Juice of 2 limes
- ½ tsp. garlic powder
- Heat the olive oil in a wide, shallow pan over medium heat until shimmering. Pat the fillets dry with a paper towel, then sprinkle the pepper and ½ teaspoon of the salt over both sides. Lay the fillets in the pan, then pour in enough buttermilk to cover them completely.
- Bring to a gentle simmer (the buttermilk will begin to curdle) and cook for three minutes, then flip the fillets and cook for another two minutes, or until the fish flakes easily with a fork. Remove the fillets and discard the curdled buttermilk.
- In a small bowl, mix the butter, cilantro, lime juice, garlic powder, and remaining ½ teaspoon of salt. Spoon the herb-butter mixture over the fish and serve.
Sea Scallop Corn Chowder
Makes 4 servings • Prep time 30 minutes • Cook time 45 minutes
- 5 oz. bacon, roughly chopped
- 2 cups frozen sweet white corn, thawed
- 2 cups whole milk (or substitute 1½ cups coconut milk and ½ cup coconut cream)
- 1 shallot, minced
- 1 rib celery, diced
- 1 large carrot, peeled and diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 medium Russet potatoes, peeled and diced
- 1 cup clam juice
- 1½ tsp. sea salt, divided
- 1 tsp. smoked paprika, divided
- ¾ tsp. white pepper, divided
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 lb. large fresh sea scallops
- ½ tsp. garlic powder
- 2 tbs. grassfed butter
- ¼ cup parsley, minced
- 3 tbs. chives, minced
- Juice of ½ lemon
- In a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, cook the bacon over medium heat until crispy, about seven to 10 minutes.
- While the bacon is crisping, purée 1 cup of the corn and 1 cup of the milk in a blender or food processor until smooth.
- Remove the bacon from the pot and set aside, leaving the grease behind. Add the shallot, celery, and carrot to the pot and sauté until soft, three to five minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, another minute. Add the corn and milk mixture and the potatoes. Stir to combine and turn the heat to low, then cover and simmer until the potatoes are soft, about 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- Stir in the clam juice and the remaining milk and corn. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, ½ teaspoon of the smoked paprika, ½ teaspoon of the white pepper, and the bay leaves. Stir to combine, cover, and simmer for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
- While the chowder simmers, cook the scallops. In a small bowl, mix the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt, ½ teaspoon of smoked paprika, ¼ teaspoon of white pepper, and the garlic powder. Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel, then sprinkle the spice mixture on the top and bottom of each.
- In a wide pan, heat the butter over medium-high until bubbling. Add the scallops in a single layer, sear for three minutes, then flip and sear for three more minutes. Remove the scallops from the pan and set them aside.
- Add the cooked bacon, parsley, chives, and lemon juice to the chowder. Stir well, then ladle into bowls and top each serving with a few scallops.
Crab Risotto
Makes 4 servings • Prep time 15 minutes • Cook time 40 to 50 minutes
- 3–4 cups seafood stock
- 5 tbs. grassfed butter, divided
- 2 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 shallot, minced
- 3 tbs. minced garlic, divided
- 1 tsp. dried thyme
- 1 cup arborio rice
- 1 tsp. sea salt, divided
- 1 cup dry white wine, divided
- ¼ cup minced parsley
- ¼ cup water
- 1 lb. fresh lump crab meat
- ½ lemon
- Pour the seafood stock into a small pot and place over medium-low heat to keep warm. In a large pan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon each of the butter and olive oil. Add the shallot and ½ tablespoon of the minced garlic and sauté until fragrant, about two minutes.
- Add the thyme, rice, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Toast the rice until most grains are translucent, about one to two minutes, stirring constantly.
- Add ½ cup of the wine and stir until it’s mostly absorbed, approximately three minutes. Add one cup of the warmed seafood stock, adjust the heat to low, and cover. Cook for about eight minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is absorbed. Add another cup of stock and repeat.
- After the third round of stock, test the rice for doneness. If it is still too hard in the center, add more stock, ½ cup at a time, allowing the liquid to absorb between additions. The final risotto should be thick but loose and easy to stir. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley, and set aside.
- In another pan, heat the remaining tablespoon of the olive oil over low heat and sauté the rest of the garlic until fragrant, about two minutes. Add the remaining ½ cup of wine and allow to reduce by about half, about five minutes. Add the remaining butter one tablespoon at a time, whisking between additions to emulsify the butter and form a thick sauce.
- Add the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and whisk in the water one tablespoon at a time until smooth. Carefully fold in the crab meat. Add the crab and sauce to the risotto, using a spatula to gently fold everything together. Finish with a generous squeeze of lemon and serve.
Grilled Lobster With Garlic-Herb Confit
Makes 2 to 4 servings • Prep time 60 minutes • Cook time 12 minutes
- 4 large garlic cloves, peeled
- 2–4 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 2–4 fresh lobster tails
- Sea salt, to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- 1 tbs. minced parsley
- 1 tbs. minced chives
- 1 tbs. minced basil
- Lemon wedges, for serving
- Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Place the garlic cloves in a small ramekin and add enough oil to just submerge them. Cover the ramekin with a lid or aluminum foil and roast for 30 minutes, or until the garlic is soft and golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly.
- Heat grill to about 400 degrees F.
- Use kitchen shears to cut a slit down the center of each lobster tail’s top shell, leaving the tail fan connected. Place a sharp knife into the slit and cut through the meat — but not through the bottom shell — to butterfly the lobster. Spread the tail open so it lays flat. Brush the meat with the remaining olive oil and add salt and pepper to taste.
- Place the tails on the grill meat-side down and close the lid. Grill for six minutes.
- In the meantime, use a fork to mash the softened garlic into the olive oil. Add the herbs and stir. Flip the lobster tails and generously coat the meat with the garlic and herb mixture. Close the lid and grill for another four minutes, or until the meat easily pulls away from the shell.
- Serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side.
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