Do you notice your skin feeling dryer during the winter months? The chilly weather and waning humidity can stress the skin barrier, causing it to lose moisture. The result is often dry, dull skin.
Although we can’t control the elements, the good news is that effective skincare can keep your skin barrier healthy and your skin hydrated and smooth. The most effective plan pairs the right skincare ingredients with protective, winter-specific habits.
There are four categories of moisturizing ingredients that serve different purposes and/or are best suited for certain skin types or situations. Each plays a role in supporting hydration and skin-barrier repair:
- Humectants help draw moisture into the skin.
- Emollients help smooth the skin.
- Ceramides help rebuild the lipid barrier
- Occlusives lock moisture in place.
Using the right one or combination of these can significantly change how your skin responds to harsh seasonal conditions.
Here, I delve into each of these categories of ingredients and share the ones I most often recommend during the winter months to keep skin looking and feeling its best.
Humectants
Humectants help draw moisture to the skin. My two favorites are hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which you may find separately or combined in many moisturizing product formulas. It is not necessary to use two separate products for each; one or the other is usually sufficient, though they are perfectly safe to use together.
1. Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring sugar molecule found throughout the body in the skin, joints, and eyes. Its main job is to hold water within the stratum corneum — the skin’s outer layer — to improve hydration and elasticity. Think of it as a sponge that can pull in and retain large amounts of moisture.
As we age or during seasons when the weather gets dry, our natural hyaluronic acid levels drop. This is when topical hyaluronic acid serums and moisturizers can help. There are many different types of hyaluronic acid, and most quality skincare products use a blend to hydrate the skin at multiple levels. Hyaluronic acid in skincare is lab-created using biotechnology so it’s chemically identical to the hyaluronic acid found naturally in human skin.
- High-molecular weight hyaluronic acid: This type stays on the skin’s surface and hydrates the top layer. Look for sodium hyaluronate, hyaluronic acid, or hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer on the ingredients list. Phrases like “surface hydration” or “instant hydration” may also indicate a higher molecular weight.
- Low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid: This type sinks deeper into the skin for longer-lasting hydration. Look for hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid or sodium acetylated hyaluronate on the ingredients label. Phrases like “deep penetration,” “plumps from within,” or “low weight” may also indicate a lower molecular weight.
Is hyaluronic acid right for me?
Skin that feels tight or crepey often lacks water, not oil, and can benefit from hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid. Because hyaluronic acid works by attracting and binding moisture, it benefits most skin types, including sensitive, acne-prone, and post-procedure skin. It does not clog pores or disrupt the skin barrier.
My product recommendation:
My favorite topical hyaluronic acid products are the HA HydraSerum+TM from Revision and Skin Medica’s HA5® Hydra Collagen Hydrator serum. Both include several molecular weights of hyaluronic acid designed to target multiple skin layers for comprehensive hydration.
Both products are serums, not full moisturizers. I recommend using them after cleansing and applying any other treatment serums; apply the hyaluronic acid serum on top and then add your moisturizer on top of that. You can use it in the morning and evening.
2. Glycerin
Glycerin is a naturally occurring molecule in the body. It increases water content inside and around keratinocytes, which are the main cells in the epidermis of your skin. Glycerin acts like a water-attracting magnet: It pulls moisture from the environment into deeper layers of the skin. It helps preserve the skin barrier, which leads to less water escaping.
Glycerin also modulates aquaporin-3 (AQP3) expression. Think of AQP3 as tiny faucets inside your skin that move water and glycerol between skin cells. Glycerin helps turn those faucets on, making it easier to circulate moisture throughout the skin.
Glycerin also improves moisture retention across relative humidity ranges. Some humectants only work well when there is moisture in the air; glycerin is different in that it keeps drawing in and holding onto water even when the air is very dry.
While some products contain naturally derived glycerin from plant oils (usually labeled as “vegetable glycerin”), glycerin is most often created in a lab in order to be more affordable, more stable, and more consistent in quality. Both naturally derived and synthetic versions are considered safe, clean, and effective for topical use; synthetic glycerin is often preferred in medical grade skincare because it allows for stricter quality control and reduces the risk of contaminants.
Is glycerin right for me?
Glycerin is an excellent ingredient to consider if your skin feels dry, tight, or rough, or it is easily irritated. It is especially helpful for skin with a weakened barrier due to seasonal changes, frequent cleansing, exfoliation, retinoid use, or underlying conditions like eczema.
My product recommendation:
My favorite product containing glycerin is the D·E·J Face Cream® from Revision. This product contains glycerin as a moisturizer, so I recommend using it after cleansing and after applying any treatment serums in both the morning and night.
Glycerin is also a top ingredient to consider when selecting a body lotion as it helps seal in moisture and keep the skin barrier intact all over your body. One of my favorites is the Youth Body Serum from iS Clinical. This formula is best used directly after bathing and as quickly as you can get it on your skin. It can also be used as needed throughout the day.
Emollients
Emollients moisturize by filling tiny cracks and gaps in the skin’s outer layer to smooth, soften, and restore flexibility. As our skin ages and the weather gets colder, the natural lipids that keep skin soft can decline. Emollients act like a filler between skin cells, reinforcing the skin’s natural lipid matrix and supporting overall texture.
3. Squalane
Squalene (with an “e”) is a naturally occurring lipid found in sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin; its primary role is to keep the skin soft, smooth, and flexible. As a skincare ingredient, squalane (with an “a”) is a stable form of squalene that works by filling in microscopic gaps between corneocytes (dead, flattened cells) in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis). It’s like a silky, cushioning lipid that restores suppleness and reduces rough texture.
Instead of pulling in water like humectants do, squalane functions as an emollient, meaning it reinforces the lipid matrix that surrounds skin cells, helping the layers stay compact and resilient. When those lipid layers are intact, water escapes more slowly, and the barrier stays stronger and calmer.
Because squalane remains stable and fluid across humidity levels, it gives the skin a consistent, smooth feel, whether the air is very dry or very humid, making it an ideal choice for restoring softness and supporting the skin barrier year-round.
While squalene is naturally found in the skin, many plants — olives, sugarcane, rice bran, and wheat germ, for instance — are also sources.
Is squalane right for me?
Squalane is a great option if your skin feels imbalanced, or if your natural oils have been depleted by over-cleansing, cold weather, or actives in skincare. Skin that feels rough, dull, or easily irritated often benefits from lipid-restoring ingredients like squalane.
My product recommendation:
My favorite product containing squalane is the D·E·J Daily Boosting Serum® from Revision. I recommend applying this serum directly after cleansing and before other actives or moisturizers.
Barrier Repair
Barrier repair refers to restoring and strengthening the skin’s outermost layer so that it can properly hold moisture and protect against irritants, allergens, and environmental stress. When the barrier is damaged, skin can lose water too quickly and become dry, irritated, or inflamed.
4. Ceramides
Ceramides are both a barrier repair and an emollient. They are natural body-occurring lipids that make up about 50 percent of the skin’s outer layer: They are part of the “mortar” that holds your skin together and keeps moisture from leaking out. When your skin gets dry, irritated, or damaged, these ceramides can become depleted, weakening the barrier and allowing water to escape.
Moisturizers containing lab-created ceramides help replenish the skin’s missing lipids, strengthen the skin barrier, lock in moisture, and keep irritants out — reducing dryness, redness, and sensitivity.
Are ceramides right for me?
You may benefit from adding ceramides if your skin often feels dry, tight, sensitive, or easily irritated, especially after cleansing or exposure to cold weather, wind, or indoor heating. When naturally occurring ceramides are depleted, the skin barrier becomes compromised. Signs of a weakened skin barrier include redness, flaking, stinging with products, or makeup that looks patchy or uneven on the skin.
My product recommendation:
My favorite skincare formula containing ceramides is the DermProtect Barrier DefenseTM from Revision. It contains a ceramide blend to help lock in moisture and create a healthy environment for the skin’s microbiome. I would advise using this product as the moisturizing step in your skincare routine, following cleansing and applying other treatments, both in the morning and evening.
5. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is one of the most versatile and well-researched skincare ingredients to improve the skin barrier while also reducing inflammation, improving hydration, and strengthening the skin over time. It’s a form of niacin, an essential nutrient our bodies need, that’s found naturally in foods like meats, fish, eggs, green vegetables, and whole grains.
It’s also a lab-created ingredient for skincare products. For skincare purposes, I recommend focusing only on topical options: It has the strongest and most consistent evidence for signaling the skin to increase ceramide synthesis directly within keratinocytes. (Oral niacinamide supports overall cellular metabolism but does not reliably signal the skin to increase ceramide production.)
Topical niacinamide helps the skin barrier become more resilient, retain moisture, and better repair itself.
Additionally, niacinamide helps reduce several inflammatory pathways in the skin, making it helpful for additional concerns such as acne, rosacea, eczema, redness, and skin recovering from procedures or irritation. Studies show that it helps restore the skin barrier more quickly than when it is not used on skin that is damaged from things like winter dryness.
Is niacinamide right for me?
Niacinamide is a good ingredient to consider if your skin feels dry, sensitive, and slow to recover from environmental stressors like cold weather, wind or indoor heating. It is especially helpful if you notice signs of a weakened skin barrier, such as redness, flaking, tightness, or stinging when applying products. Because niacinamide helps the skin produce more ceramides, fatty acids, and barrier proteins, it supports long-term strength rather than just providing temporary hydration.
My product recommendation:
My favorite product containing niacinamide is the Poly-Vitamin Serum® from iS Clinical. This serum deeply hydrates while delivering a combination of essential vitamins, bionutrients, and antioxidants.
I recommend using it right after cleansing and after any lighter, treatment-focused serums, allowing it to layer smoothly without interfering with active ingredients. It should be used prior to moisturizing to help seal in hydration and nutrients.
Treatments with niacinamide may be incorporated both morning and evening, especially for skin that is dry, stressed, or in need of added resilience and recovery support.
Occlusives
I like to think of occlusives as a lid on transepidermal water loss: When moisture tries to evaporate from the skin’s surface, occlusives act as a shield to keep water in the skin longer, so it stays hydrated.
6. Petrolatum
Petrolatum is a man-made ingredient that forms a semi-occlusive film over the skin, slowing the evaporation of water from the skin. Semi-occlusive means it locks in moisture while still allowing the skin to breathe. Petrolatum is most often found in products like Vaseline®, Aquaphor®, CeraVe® ointments, and most diaper creams. Studies show it to be the most effective occlusive, reducing transdermal water loss by up to 90 percent.
It is important to note that occlusives, including petrolatum, aren’t typically recommended for oily or acne-prone skin as they can trap oil and bacteria, leading to breakouts. They usually are reserved for very dry, cracked, or chapped skin or areas recovering from irritation, over-exfoliation, or treatments that disrupt the skin barrier.
Is petrolatum right for me?
Petrolatum is a good ingredient to consider if your skin feels very dry, compromised, or unable to hold moisture despite using hydrating products. It is especially helpful when the skin barrier is damaged from cold weather, over-exfoliation, active treatments, or procedures, as petrolatum forms a protective seal over the skin that dramatically reduces water loss. If you skin is tight, flaky, cracked, or irritated, an occlusive like petrolatum can help create the environment needed for healing.
My product recommendation:
My favorite skincare product containing petrolatum is Sheald Recovery Balm from iS Clinical. I recommend using an occlusive product as the very last step of your skincare routine to lock in moisture and keep your other products in place on the skin.
Occlusives can be used alone or on top of your regular moisturizer, especially if your skin is very dry, compromised, or recovering from environmental stress or procedures. It helps seal hydration from humectants and barrier-repair ingredients underneath. It is best used at night, when the skin naturally focuses on repair and moisture loss is highest.
7 Routine Adjustments to Help Keep Your Skin Hydrated This Winter
Effective winter skincare requires a combined internal and external approach. Gentle cleansing and the strategic layering of hydrating and barrier-supportive products can help keep moisture in the skin, while simple lifestyle habits can also help strengthen the skin’s natural moisture pathways. Integrating these strategies can help you maintain a healthier, more resilient skin barrier all winter long while minimizing dryness, irritation, and sensitivity.
1. Use a humidifier.
Indoor heat pulls moisture out of the air, which can pull moisture out of your skin. Keeping humidity around 40 to 50 percent can significantly reduce transepidermal water loss.
2. Take short, lukewarm showers.
Hot water can strip your skin of its natural oils, making it feel drier. Aim to limit showers to 10 minutes and moisturize with body lotion immediately afterward to lock moisture into your skin post-shower.
3. Drink plenty of water.
Drinking enough water helps keep internal tissues hydrated. It’s advised to aim for consuming half of your body weight in ounces of water daily, plus more if you’re sweating. Note that water alone doesn’t guarantee improved skin hydration if your skin barrier is damaged. However, adequate hydration can still support normal cell turnover, blood flow to the skin, healthy mucous membranes, and better elasticity.
4. Use a gentle cleanser.
Use a cream-based or other gentle cleanser that’s free from foaming surfactants such as sulfates; these are much gentler on the skin and won’t strip the skin of needed oils and moisture.
Also, reduce exfoliation frequency by about 30 to 50 percent. For example, if you normally exfoliate two to three times per week, scale back to once a week in the winter months. If you exfoliate daily with mild acids or exfoliating cleansers, switching to every other day or two to three times per week is usually more barrier friendly.
Make adjustments based on how your skin feels. Using harsh cleansers and over-exfoliating can damage the skin barrier and worsen winter dryness.
5. Consider electrolyte supplementation.
Skin cells require balanced electrolytes — including sodium, potassium, and magnesium — for water movement into cells, optimal skin barrier repair, and maintaining moisture balance. Electrolytes facilitate the movement of water across cell membranes through osmotic gradients and ion channels.
When the balance of electrolytes is disrupted, water is less efficiently retained within the cells, which can impair barrier recovery and contribute to dryness and irritation. Enhance your hydration by adding your favorite electrolyte supplement to your water.
6. Eat a nutritious, balanced diet.
Nutrition is an important component of a healthy skin barrier. Essential fatty acids — found in salmon, chia seeds, flaxseeds, walnuts, avocados, and olive oil — support ceramide production and help reduce inflammation. They are building blocks for producing ceramides and other epidermal lipids that make up the cell’s protective barrier.
Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids are incorporated into cell membranes and the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, helping strengthen barrier structure, improve flexibility, and reduce transepidermal water loss. They also influence membrane fluidity and receptor signaling, which alters how keratinocytes and immune cells respond to inflammatory stimuli, making them less reactive and more stable.
Antioxidant-rich foods such as citrus, berries, leafy greens, tomatoes, green tea, nuts, and seeds can support collagen production, reduce oxidative damage, and reinforce the skin barrier. They do this by neutralizing oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV exposure, pollution, and cold weather.
Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, polyphenols, and carotenoids help protect skin cells from free-radical damage that can degrade collagen, lipids, and proteins essential to the skin barrier.
Protein is also essential. Your skin’s structural proteins — keratin, filaggrin, and collagen — require amino acids to form. Getting adequate protein helps ensure these cells are healthy and robust to support the skins’ structure.
7. Don’t skip sunscreen.
Even though it’s tempting in the winter months, applying sunscreen is still essential. UV and visible light still damage the skin barrier in the winter, and snow reflects UV, increasing its damaging effects.
Choose a broad-spectrum SPF 30+, ideally in the form of a fragrance-free cream (fragrances can also disrupt the skin barrier). Apply it daily after your morning moisturizer.
