Skincare has come a long way over the past decade, with innovative ingredients intended to help you achieve the results you want — whether that’s smoother skin, fewer fine lines, or reduced pigmentation. Among these ingredients are retinoids, peptides, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids, which are commonly recommended by skincare experts — but what exactly are these ingredients? And what do they do?
Here, I’m explaining these three skincare ingredients and offering some considerations to help you decide if they’re right for you.
1. Retinoids
Often formulated into a cream or serum, retinoids are a buzzy topic when it comes to taking care of aging skin. Working at the cellular level, retinoids help to deeply resurface your skin by increasing cell turnover and encouraging the shedding of skin cells to reveal healthier, younger-appearing skin. Retinoids are fat soluble molecules that can penetrate through the outermost layer of skin and slightly into the dermal layer.
Retinoids are derivatives from vitamin A and offer many benefits to the skin, including:
- Stimulating collagen: Retinoids stimulate fibroblasts (cells commonly found in connective tissue throughout the body) to synthesize collagen fibers. Collagen is the scaffolding within the dermal layer. The more collagen present in the skin, the firmer and suppler the dermal layer is, and the more youthful it appears.
- Repairing photodamage: Photodamage is a term used to describe skin damage from the UV rays of the sun. Sun damage can cause changes at the cellular level that result in collagen loss and accelerated aging of the skin. Retinoids can help repair photodamage by stimulating cell turnover and moving newer skin cells to the surface. They also stimulate collagen production as well as stop the collagen breakdown that occurs when the skin is photodamaged.
- Unclogging pores: Increasing cell turnover causes exfoliation of the skin, which clears out dead skin cells and oil that can clog pores.
- Clearing up acne: Some may find that retinoids help clear up acne by increasing cell turnover and unclogging pores.
How Do I Know If Retinoids Are Right for Me?
I recommend retinoids for those dealing with mild acne, mild pigmentation irregularities, and mild fine lines and wrinkles. However, it’s important to talk with a skincare professional about which type of retinoid is best for you, especially if you have sensitive skin, skin allergies, dryness, or your skin is darker in color. These skin types may be more susceptible to excessive dryness and irritation and should start with a product that has the lowest concentration of retinoids possible.
Retinoids come in a variety of strengths and formulations, and if you’re new to using them, I often suggest starting with a lighter formula. Over-the-counter retinoids range in concentration from 0.01 percent to 1 percent. Anything over 1 percent usually requires a prescription. I recommend starting with a concentration between 0.03 percent to 0.05 percent two to three times per week and slowly increasing to everyday application if your skin is tolerating it well. I always recommend achieving daily use before moving up to a higher-concentrated formula.
There are two types of retinoids: Natural and synthetic. Natural retinoids tend to be lower in strength, while synthetic retinoids have stronger effects on the skin and are only available through prescription from a dermatologist. When used incorrectly, synthetic retinoids can cause excessive damage to the skin such as erythema, irritation, and dryness, so it’s best to have guidance from a practitioner.
I recommend starting with non-prescription-strength retinoids as they have lighter formulas and can be effective without overly irritating the skin. Synthetic retinoids are typically reserved for those who are experiencing aggressive acne that is nonresponsive to other products. Other prescription-strength retinoids can also accelerate the antiaging benefits but for many, they are too harsh on the skin.
(Note that healthcare professionals advise against using retinoids while pregnant as they can increase the vitamin A levels in the body, which can be harmful to the fetus during pregnancy.)
2. Peptides
Peptides are strings of amino acids, which are building blocks that make up proteins in our body, including collagen and elastin fibers, which provide structure, firmness, and elasticity to the skin.
Peptides naturally occur in the body and are present in every single cell — however, as we age, the signals they send tend to diminish. When peptides are added as ingredients to skincare products, they can help stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid to contribute to improved skin texture and elasticity.
There are a few specific types of peptides used in skincare products, including:
- Signal peptides which are the most common peptides found in skincare products and work to signal the body to produce more collagen and elastin to improve tone and texture of the skin. Look for “palmitoyl pentapeptide-4” and “palmitoyl oligopeptide” on product ingredient lists as these are the most common signal peptides found in antiaging formulations.
- Carrier peptides which serve as a carrier to deliver trace elements into the skin such as copper and magnesium, which are often included as ingredients in the same product. The carrier peptide delivers these ingredients into the dermis where it has anti-inflammatory and tissue remodeling properties. This process has been shown in studies to promote skin remodeling, wound healing, and tissue regeneration. You will most commonly find carrier peptides in wound healing creams, rejuvenating serums, or creams for hyperpigmentation. You will find this peptide often listed as “GHK2-CU” or “copper peptide” either on the label or in the ingredient list for skin care products.
- Enzyme-inhibitor peptides which work by signaling the body to put a stop to or slow down a certain process. For example, they can help prevent the loss of collagen or prevent pigmentation. Look for “dipeptide diaminobutyrol benzylamide diacetate” on the ingredient list — these are most often found in creams designed for firming and improving skin texture and elasticity.
- Neurotransmitter peptides are found in injectable formulations (like BOTOX®) and can also be added to topical skincare products to help relax muscles and subsequently reduce fine lines and wrinkles. You would most commonly see this listed as “Argieline” on an ingredient list in formulations that are used to target facial muscles to reduce expression lines.
How Do I Know If Peptides Are Right for Me?
Peptides work best when delivered in a cream, lotion, or serum. They are most beneficial when added to product formulations that include other ingredients like vitamin C, antioxidants, and niacinamide because they can help support them and complement their benefits. An advanced esthetician, aesthetic nurse, or dermatologist can help you decide which peptides are right for your skin’s needs.
3. Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a group of acids that occur naturally in sources like milk, fruits, and sugar cane. AHAs are used in skincare products mainly for exfoliation purposes, but can also help improve skin texture, address sun damage and pigmentation, and reduce acne. Alpha hydroxy acids accomplish these benefits by breaking the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the skin’s surface, allowing them to more easily flake off. This reduces clogged pores and reveals smoother skin beneath the surface of dead skin cells. This new skin often has less sun damage and pigmentation along with a more smooth, soft texture.
There are seven types of AHAs that you will see in many skincare products, including:
- Glycolic acid (from sugar cane)
- Lactic acid (from lactose)
- Citric acid (from citrus fruit)
- Malic acid (from fruit)
- Tartaric acid (from grapes)
- Hydroxycaproic acid (from royal jelly)
- Hydroxycaprylic acid (from animals)
Extensive research supports the use of AHAs in skincare. The two most researched types — and those most often seen in skincare products — are glycolic and lactic acid. These two AHAs are also least likely to cause irritation. You can find AHAs in daily creams, toners, serums, and in more concentrated chemical peel treatments. Serums and toners may penetrate better and are most recommend if your skin responds well to them. Some more sensitive skin types may need a formulation delivered in a cream alongside other moisturizing and skin nourishing ingredients. The way the acids work to exfoliate your skin results in disruption of the skin barrier, which in some cases can cause irritation.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) differ from AHAs in that they are primarily derived from one source: salicylic acid. BHAs can also be as effective as AHAs for acne, sun damage and discoloration, and improving skin texture by removing dead skin cells which in turn can help clear blackheads and whiteheads by unclogging pores.
How Do I Know If AHAs and BHAs Are Right for Me?
AHAs can be helpful for age-related skin concerns such as sun damage and fine lines, while BHAs may be the better choice if you have sensitive, acne prone skin. An advanced esthetician, aesthetic nurse, or dermatologist can help you decide if AHAs or BHAs are right for your skin’s needs.
AHAs and BHAs are both relatively safe ingredients to incorporate into your skincare regimen, however, I recommend adding them in slowly to avoid irritation.
