There are countless options to explore when addressing skin conditions, from low-barrier treatments like topical products to more in-depth services like facials, chemical peels, microneedling, and light-based therapies. Among the more intensive protocols, two light-based therapies — lasers and intense pulsed light (IPL) treatments — are popular for their ability to improve several skin conditions.
Lasers and IPL treatments are specialized medical devices that emit concentrated beams of light energy to target issues, imperfections, and damage within the skin. They have been shown to improve wrinkles, fine lines, acne scars, age spots, melasma, discoloration, and uneven texture and skin tone. They can also promote collagen production, prevent acne, shrink pores, and stop some future signs of aging.
“These devices work by either safely removing the top layer of skin or stimulating the deeper layers to encourage new skin growth,” says Laura Bellendier, a Sciton-certified laser specialist at LifeSpa MediSpa in Eden Prairie, Minn. “Different types of devices are used depending on the skin concern and the desired outcome.”
The words “laser” or “intense light” may evoke a feeling of hesitance or even alarm, but estheticians and medical spa nurses emphasize that these facial treatments are safe when properly used in a medical spa or dermatology setting.
To learn more about light-based therapies and their benefits, we asked Bellendier and Lisa Wohlfert, also a Sciton-certified laser specialist at LifeSpa MediSpa in Eden Prairie, Minn., to answer some common questions around these practices.
Life Time | How exactly do lasers and IPL treatments work to treat skin conditions?
Laura Bellendier | Lasers and IPL treatments work by delivering focused beams of light energy at specific wavelengths to interact with targeted structures in the skin.
These devices are designed to interact with specific chromophores — or light absorbing molecules— in the skin, including melanin (skin pigmentation), hemoglobin (which affects redness and vascular lesions), and water (which aids in resurfacing and collagen stimulation). The energy from the light converts to heat, causing a controlled thermal effect that either destroys the targeted structure or stimulates cellular processes for healing and renewal. Here is how they can address the following skin conditions:
- Hyperpigmentation and age spots: Lasers break down excess melanin into smaller particles, which are then naturally eliminated by the body.
- Vascular lesions (e.g., rosacea or spider veins): Lasers heat the blood in capillaries, causing them to coagulate and collapse. Over time, the body reabsorbs these damaged vessels.
- Skin resurfacing (e.g., texture, wrinkles, or scars): Ablative lasers vaporize the outer layer of skin, promoting the growth of new healthy tissue. Non-ablative lasers penetrate deeper layers to stimulate collagen and elastin production without removing surface skin.
- Acne and bacteria: Certain lasers and light therapies, such as blue light, can destroy acne-causing bacteria and help reduce inflammation.
- Hair removal: Lasers target the melanin found in hair follicles, heating and disabling the follicle to prevent future growth.
LT | What are the most popular types of light-based skin treatments?
Lisa Wohlfert | While there are many types of skin lasers on the market, there are a few popular standouts based on the results they provide and the ease in recovery time. One is the MOXI Prejuvenation by Sciton, which is a non-ablative fractionated laser treatment.
MOXI uses non-ablative fractionated laser energy to create tiny, controlled thermal injuries in the skin. Doing this stimulates the skin to rebuild collagen in order to heal itself from these injuries. As the skin heals, damaged cells are replaced with fresh, healthy ones. This process can improve texture, reduce pore size, decrease pigmentation, address melasma, soften fine lines and wrinkles, and slow signs of aging.
The MOXI is a great starter treatment for those looking to try skin lasers. Each treatment can be customized depending on your concerns and skin goals. MOXI is also safe for most skin types and tones and can be used by younger patients interested in “prejuvenation,” or preventing the visible signs of aging.
LB | One of my favorite light-based skin therapies is the BroadBand Light Photorejuvenation Skin Treatment (BBL™). The BBL medical device is an advanced form of light therapy used for skin treatments, and is specifically designed to address pigmentation, redness, brown spots from sun damage, and signs of aging, while stimulating and rejuvenating collagen cells. The light creates small wounds in the dermal layer, which then lead to more collagen production as the skin heals. More collagen cells allow the skin to appear more plump and more youthful once healed.
Unlike traditional lasers, the BBL uses IPL technology to deliver light energy to the skin to target specific areas without damaging surrounding tissues. IPL emits a broad spectrum of light that can be selectively absorbed by different chromophores — or pigments or molecules in the skin, such as melanin and hemoglobin (found in blood vessels). The light is delivered in short bursts or pulses. The intensity and pulse duration can be adjusted depending on the treatment needs.
LT | How do I know if I should do the MOXI or BBL service?
LB | When you have your consultation, your provider can guide you in your decision to pick the best treatment depending on your specific skin concerns and goals. MOXI is ideal for preventative antiaging and improving skin texture, sun damage, and melasma.
BBL targets pigmentation and redness and is best when done in low sun exposure months as sun exposure can affect results. I love to stack the two treatments based on skin conditions, time of year, and goals to achieve beautiful results.
LT | Are light-based skin treatments safe or do they pose any risks to be aware of?
LB | Skin treatments, including lasers and other advanced modalities like IPL, are generally safe when performed by qualified and experienced professionals. Be sure to go to a licensed and trained professional using FDA-approved devices. A thorough consultation helps identify your skin type and any contraindications. Additionally, following post-treatment guidelines is essential to prevent complications and achieve optimal results.
LT | What precautions should I be aware of for my safety and comfort?
LB | There are a few things I would recommend, including the following:
Make sure to choose a skilled, certified professional for your service.
If they are using a Sciton device, like the MOXI or BBL, ask the provider if they have been certified by Sciton. All providers using Sciton devices should have received safety training and certification education from a Sciton instructor.
Ask for referrals and check out reviews.
To find a highly qualified laser specialist, start by seeking a referral from your esthetician or dermatologist. It can also be helpful to read reviews before setting up a consultation. You can learn a lot from other people’s experiences. I recommend looking for a provider that has positive reviews around delivering results and listening to their clients.
Set up a consultation before your actual service.
Before you book an actual service, I recommend scheduling a consultation to learn more from your laser specialist and talk with them about your specific skin concerns. When I give a laser consultation, I always ask the client about their concerns. I want them to leave feeling educated and comfortable with the process.
Check your skincare ingredients.
If you use any skincare products that contain active ingredients such as retinol, tretinoin, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, or benzyl peroxide, it’s best to discontinue use of those products seven days prior to your treatment.
If you use hydroquinone (a topical medication for hyperpigmentation), it’s best to discontinue use for three days prior to your treatment. Be sure to avoid sun exposure (including tanning beds) for four weeks before treatment and avoid sunless tanning creams or sprays and waxing for 14 days prior.
Disclose your medical history.
Inform your provider about any medications, skin conditions, or recent treatments. Certain medications (like Accutane or antibiotics) and conditions (like active cold sores or infections) cannot be present at treatment time as they are a contradiction to the treatment. The treatment will need to be rescheduled to another time.
Someone who uses Accutane needs to be off the medication for at least six months before a laser treatment. If you do have a history of cold sores, it’s recommended that you talk to a dermatologist before receiving one of these skin treatments as additional precautions are needed.
LT | What can I expect on the day of the service?
LW | At your appointment, your laser specialist will apply a topical anesthetic 30 minutes prior to the service to numb the skin. Depending on the type of laser or light treatment used, you may experience mild discomfort. For example, the MOXI feels like a mild warming sensation or a mild prickling as the laser targets the skin. The amount of discomfort varies for each person.
With the BBL service, you may also feel a warming sensation as the device is moved in gentle passes across the skin. At the same time, a bright light flashes, which you may notice minimally through protective goggles.
The treatments do not take much time to complete and can be done in around eight to 10 minutes.
LT | What does the recovery process look like post-service?
LW | After a MOXI treatment, the healing process varies per individual for a variety of reasons, including the amount of sun damage to the skin, skin type, and the laser setting used by the provider. Right after your treatment, your skin will feel very warm for a couple of hours and then once that heat dissipates, your skin may feel like you have a mild sunburn.
For the following couple of days, your skin may appear pink along with some mild swelling. This swelling also varies person-to-person. To help alleviate any pain and swelling, you can use a cool compress and take acetaminophen or ibuprofen. Many people can return to work the next day with minimal visible signs of having had the treatment.
At days three to six, your skin will begin to feel rough as it starts to turn over dead skin cells. During this period, your skin will show tiny dark spots and a bronzed appearance known as MENDs — Microscopic Epidermal Necrotic Debris. They are a normal part of the healing process and will naturally flake off. You can support this process by moisturizing properly and not picking at the skin.
By day six, you can expect your skin to be visibly brighter and firmer. It does take time to rebuild collagen so you will not get your full results until about two months post-service.
LB | After a BBL treatment, you may experience some slight redness of the skin. You may also feel a warmth or sunburn sensation, which generally lasts two to four hours after the procedure. Cool compresses with a damp, soft cloth for 10 to 20 minutes at a time may help relieve the temporary discomfort. Ibuprofen or acetaminophen can be taken as directed for pain if needed.
Brown patches or spots will look darker and more pronounced immediately following your treatment. In two to three days, these brown areas become even darker and look like coffee grounds on your skin. Within one to two weeks, these dark, scaly areas slough off and leave clearer, healthy skin behind.
Some patients may wake up with facial swelling, particularly around the eyes, for several days following the treatment. To prevent this, sleep with your head elevated the night after treatment. This is normal and usually resolves within three to five days.
LT | What aftercare steps are needed post-service?
LB | As noted above, for swelling or pain, you can use a cool compress and/or over-the-counter pain medications.
If you’re spending time outside or in the sun, be sure to apply sunblock containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide with SPF 30 or higher every two hours. However, it’s best to avoid prolonged sun exposure for four weeks after treatment. Sun exposure may cause certain complications such as severe blistering and permanent skin discoloration.
Avoid using topical skin care products containing Retin-A, retinol, glycolic acid, or salicylic acid for one week. Cleanse only with lukewarm water and a gentle cleanser. When washing, use careful patting motions with your hands. When showering, try not to get shampoo or conditioner on the treated area, and avoid a powerful shower stream, whirlpools, and hot water as your skin will be more sensitive after a service. Exposure to hot water or steam can exacerbate irritation, redness, and swelling, leading to discomfort. It’s best to stick to lukewarm water and gentle skincare for a few days after the procedure to allow your skin to heal properly.
For a MOXI service, you will receive a post-procedure cream to apply two to three times daily for three days post-treatment.
LT | How often do you recommend getting a laser or IPL skin treatment?
LB | While one laser treatment can offer significant results to the skin, I recommend continuing with services for optimal results. This also will depend on the amount of damage on your skin. For a BBL, I always recommend three treatments spaced evenly apart (at a minimum of four weeks) because it takes a few sessions to see ideal results. Waiting at least four weeks between sessions allows the skin to heal and can reveal areas that may need extra attention.
LW | For the MOXI, your laser specialist can recommend a cadence of treatments based on your skin concerns. These treatments will then be spaced approximately four to five weeks apart. Your provider will work with you to create a personalized treatment plan to meet your specific goals.
