With the goal of healthier hair, many people turn to topical treatments or well-timed trims. But focusing on scalp health, experts say, is the foundational way to produce stronger, more resilient strands.
“Healthy hair always starts with the scalp,” says Emily Carey, hairstylist at LifeSpa in Green Valley, Nev. “The scalp is skin after all, and while there may be many hair follicles, it’s still important to keep this skin free of bacteria, hydrated, and in a healthy condition. If the skin is dry or has clogged pores or other ailments, it can affect hair growth and appearance. For the shiniest, strongest strands, you’ll want to ensure your scalp is in good health.”
Carey explains the scalp conditions she sees most often, and she shares her recommendations for remedying them and achieving a healthier scalp.
1. Dry Scalp
Dry scalp is one of two of the biggest culprits of poor scalp health (the other is dandruff — more on that below). While both result in visible flakes of skin coming off the scalp, they are two different conditions.
Dry scalp is like dry skin on the body: It’s tight and lacks moisture. The flakes are dry and often smaller than dandruff flakes. You may experience dry scalp if you take hot showers, use harsh shampoos, or are in a drier climate — each of these can draw moisture away from the scalp.
To alleviate dry scalp, Carey advises using a hydrating scalp serum designed to lessen irritation and tightness. She recommends using Kérastase’s Nutri-Supplement Scalp Serum. “You can use this product to target the spots that are in need of moisture,” explains Carey. “I personally tend to get really dry at the nape of my neck, for example. This product helps reduce the irritation without making my hair oily. I also love to use this product after a pool day if my scalp gets sunburned, as it helps to prevent the skin from peeling.”
Carey suggests using the serum daily until dry scalp subsides. And then use it once or twice a week going forward to help keep the scalp balanced
2. Dandruff
Dandruff is a milder form of the skin condition seborrheic dermatitis, which is caused by an overgrowth of Malassezia, a yeast-like fungus. Malassezia is normally found in the skin, but overgrowth can happen when there is excessive oil on the scalp. Overproduction of oil can happen naturally in the body due to genetics, hormonal changes, or other factors. Oil can also build up from infrequent shampooing. Like dry scalp, dandruff causes itchiness and flakes on the scalp. However, dandruff flakes appear more yellow than white and are oily and thicker.
To treat dandruff, Carey recommends using a scalp serum with salicylic acid, such as the Kérastase Serum Nuit Antipelliculaire, an anti-dandruff night serum. “Salicylic acid helps clear up plugged hair follicles while also hydrating and soothing the scalp and hair,” she says. “You’ll want to apply this serum at night when your hair is dry. I suggest using one pump and massaging the product into your scalp, focusing on problem areas, with your fingers. Do this nightly until the dandruff clears up.”
If you are battling aggressive dandruff, Carey also suggests using an antidandruff shampoo, such as the Bain Crème Antipelliculaire Antidandruff Shampoo from Kérastase. “This shampoo is very hydrating and contains pyrithione zinc, which can alleviate symptoms of dandruff.”
Carey recommends washing with the antidandruff shampoo twice per week. “This keeps your hair clean while still allowing your natural oils to hydrate your hair and scalp between washes,” she says. “Washing your hair too much can cause dryness, while not washing it enough can cause irritation that can compromise your scalp health.”
3. Product Buildup
Product buildup is another scalp condition that often gets confused with dandruff and dry scalp. When hair products build up on your scalp, the skin and hair follicles can become clogged and unbalanced, resulting in a flaky residue.
“I have clients who often apologize for their ‘dandruff’ when they sit in my chair, but 90 percent of the time it’s not dandruff, it’s product buildup,” says Carey. “If you wash your hair only once per week and use hair styling products like dry shampoo or gels, those styling products can build up quickly on the scalp, causing clogged hair follicles, residue, and flakes.”
To combat product buildup, Carey often tells her clients to try a clarifying or scalp balancing shampoo that works to break down buildup.
“I personally love the Kérastase Chronologiste shampoo because it’s clarifying yet very hydrating and gentle enough to use every day,” she says. “Cleansing shampoos typically tend to be more drying, but this is the perfect balance between moisture and clarifying. I always recommend washing hair twice in a row with this shampoo to really remove all product buildup and to make sure the scalp is cleansed completely. As a bonus, it also removes any heavy metals in the hair that may be there because of swimming or hard water use on the hair.”
(Learn more: “How Do I Wash My Hair?”)
4 Tips for a Healthier Scalp
Carey shares simple steps that have helped her and her clients maintain healthier scalps.
1. Avoid applying conditioner near your scalp.
When you’re applying conditioner, focus on the middle to ends of your hair strands, Carey advises. Conditioner is typically heavier than most shampoos and serums, so applying it to your roots can clog hair follicles and weigh down your hair.
2. Find a scalp serum that works for you.
If you’re dealing with scalp issues, Carey stresses the importance of finding a scalp serum designed specific to your condition. “That’s one reason I love the Kérastase brand scalp care products because they are designed to target specific needs,” she says. If you’re not sure about your condition and the serum that is best for you, your hairstylist can guide you to choose the right product.”
3. Try scalp massage.
Scalp massages are a great way to stimulate the cells and help break down product buildup, oils, and minerals from hard water so they’re easier to remove, Carey notes. “This helps cleanse your scalp to allow oxygen to flow to your follicles and help your products penetrate within the scalp. By stimulating the cells and increasing blood flow you are helping promote hair growth by increasing the amount of nutrients and oxygen to the hair cells.”
Right before a wash when your hair is still dry, Carey recommends using a scalp massage tool with rubber ends or the pads of your fingers to massage with light pressure and small circular motions for two to five minutes. “Use a light scalp oil to help the tool or your fingers glide over your scalp. Make sure it’s not an oil designed for the mid to end of the hair strand, as it could be too heavy for your scalp.”
4. Use soft water.
Using a water softener could be the answer to a lot of your hair concerns. The minerals in hard water, including calcium, magnesium, and iron, can weigh your hair down, and cause it to feel brittle, dry, and not fully clean. “If you have a water softener at home, I suggest you make sure you have the right amount of salt in your tank,” Carey advises. “Most think one bag of salt is enough, but my water softener recommends three to four bags to get all the softening benefits.”
If you live in a home that doesn’t have a water softener, Carey recommends using a shower head attachment like the Aquabliss Shower Filter that simply attaches to your shower head for softer water.
